ABOUT
Joanna is originally from Michigan. She’s done a lot of different things, but she wanted to be in a Christian Ministry in Africa and that’s what ultimately led her to Rwanda. She speaks English and a bit of Kinyarwanda, but probably less now that she’s been out of the country for a while.
Moving to Kigali
When and why did you move to Kigali?
I moved in 2013 to be a part of a 6 month mission program, and ended up staying six years. During my time, I worked with women who were HIV positive or widows, and helped them with school fees for their children, medical expenses, insurance and whatever else they may need. I was also involved in youth mentorship programs and even helped to start a mentorship for teen girls in an effort to keep them in school, teach them about hygiene and help empower them for a better future. I also met and married my husband and had our first baby during that time.
What is Kigali famous for?
The warm hospitality for sure! It is an incredibly friendly and welcoming culture. Also known for great coffee, a love of milk and love of dance and music.
What surprised you about life there when you first arrived?
I was surprised how developed Kigali was. I knew very little about it when I went, so I was prepared for anything except being in a developed city.
How did you get set up? (phone plan, bank ..)
Phones are all pay-as-you-go and it’s pretty simple to get set up. You just go to one of the many phone shops and get your phone and buy airtime. All you need is your passport and of course money to pay.
How to find a job in Kigali?
I’m not totally sure about this as I was a volunteer with a few different organizations. However, there are several expat sites and Facebook groups that would be super helpful for this.
Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance?
I did not have insurance for about the first year and then I purchased one through a US company, so that was simple. Purchasing a private policy from Rwandan companies feels fairly simple though.
What did you bring with you?
I took the basic essentials of clothes, personal items, laptop, etc. From what I have heard, it’s easier, faster and even more cost effective to buy things like furniture, dishes there directly.
How did you find an apartment in Kigali?
My organization provided a room during my first few years. There are some housing sites but it seems that talking to other expats is a really good way to find a place because people are always leaving the country. Typically, a local would work with a commissioner to see homes and then pay them a fee for their help. Rent can have a large range. We rented a three bedroom home for about $500, but depending where it is, the same thing could be double that or more. Apartments are typically more expensive.
What should people consider before deciding to move to Kigali?
Most things move slowly! Service at restaurants, doctor’s appointments, government services… Within Kigali, you can find most western conveniences but some are expensive and don’t have a reliable supply, so be prepared!
Living in KigAli
What are the main differences between Americans and Rwandans?
In general, Rwandans are very community-oriented while Americans are more individualistic and that comes up with everything.
What language do you need to live in Kigali?
English is widely spoken, but knowing French or Kinyarwanda would make life much easier.
Did you feel safe as a woman in Kigali?
100%! There are less safe areas, but for the most part I felt safer there than I do in the US.
Where is the best area to live in Kigali?
There are many areas that are kind of seen as the mzungu (white people) areas. Running water and electricity are more reliable in these areas, they are close to downtown and the homes are quite nice. Nyarturama, Kacyiru, Kimihurura, are one of those areas.
What are your favorite restaurants and bars in your area?
I’m not much of a bar person, but my husband and I loved getting Akabenzi (pork) at Come Again, it’s a common place to drink and watch football as well. I spent a lot of time at Tally, a small, sketchy-looking cafe in Remera.
How much money do you need to live comfortably in Kigali?
I’ve been out of the country for four years, so I’m sure it’s changed. And honestly, it depends on how you want to live. If you want to live like you would in the west (constant running water, reliable electricity, eating Western food all the time) it’ll definitely cost more. In 2013, I lived on about $500 usd. I lived very simply though. My best guess is that $3000-$5000 a month could give you a quite comfortable life.
Can you tell us something else about Kigali that we might not know?
Kigali is ever growing, ever expanding and changing.
People are very social and always have time to stop and chat. If you’re trying to do anything in a hurry, you’ll probably get frustrated because that’s just not how it all operates.
Describe your favorite recreational activities there or those that are available.
I just went to coffee shops a lot! But I’ve heard that Kigali has a vibrant nightlife, there are walking tours, art centers and more. There are so many great restaurants and cafes. Outside of the city there are lakes, safaris, even visiting gorillas and a volcano.
Can you tell me something about local culture that people might not know?
Something I found funny was that there are “milk bars”. And it’s just a place to go and drink a mug of milk. I have never seen so many grown adults just sitting down to a giant glass of milk.
Are there any experiences there that surprised you?
My experiences are different from the typical expat, because I didn’t do the touristy things. Attending Rwandan weddings is a whole experience in and of itself that I never feel used to.
The genocide memorial is a unique experience as well. It’s not fun, but it’s very enlightening and educational about the 1994 genocide.
Final Thoughts
What does the future of Kigali or Rwanda look like?
So bright!! Rwanda is still developing and they have huge plans. Rwanda is becoming more and more known for its development and tourism. I think within no time, Kigali will be much like big cities in the west.
What has been the hardest aspect of living in Kigali?
Many people make comments that in my culture would be rude or awkward, like commenting on your body, skin color or marital status. I had to learn that they are observing and talking and it’s not meant to be offensive at all. The culture is so community-oriented that sometimes, at least to me, it felt overbearing or invasive. But it’s all from a good heart, and it took me a while to learn that.
What are your plans for the future?
We plan to go back! My husband and I are planning our return to work as missionaries and me as a midwife. We hope to be back in the next few years and stay for the foreseeable future.
Thank you Joanna for sharing your experience moving to another country with us! It can be quite daunting to move internationally, especially starting a new life on a different continent, but I am hoping that with your information it will make the jump slightly easier! Joanna’s IG contact here!
