Expat Story: To Copenhagen in Denmark

by The Photography Confidential
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ABOUT

Grace was born in Arkansas in the US, but she had lived the past 8 years in Raleigh, North Carolina until she moved to Copenhagen, Denmark with her toddler and golden retriever this past spring. She grew up with a love of travel and meeting people from different countries since her parents had friends connected to churches around the world. She also studied abroad at Oxford University for a semester in college, so that introduced her to the European way of life. Professionally, she is a UX content strategist, but she is currently doing freelance writing work.

Moving to Copenhagen

When and why did you move to Copenhagen?

After studying abroad, I knew that I would jump at the chance to live in Europe again, and I had shared this dream with my husband. A few years ago, he started looking at video game jobs in other countries (heā€™s a UI/UX artist), and we were lucky enough to find one in Copenhagen and loved the idea of living in Scandinavia for a season.

What surprised you about life in Copenhagen when you first arrived?

For the first month or so that we lived here, I was shocked at how little people greet you or interact with you. Danes are typically more on the quiet side (especially when they donā€™t know you) and keep to themselves. I was surprised that even when walking on trails in my neighborhood, no one would say hi or smile. I now understand that theyā€™re not being rude, but they donā€™t want to bother you. Iā€™ve also received more greetings as weā€™ve lived here longer and got the chance to meet people in our area.

What is Copenhagen famous for?

I would say Copenhagen is famous for bikes, water, wind, boats, pastries and Carlsberg beer.

How to find a job in Copenhagen?

If you work in the technology field like I do, you can use LinkedIn to search for jobs and connect with companies. My husband used ArtStation to find his job here.

How did you find an apartment in Copenhagen?

We were super lucky to find an amazing rental house (or villa, as they call them here) on Danishhomes.com, and my husbandā€™s work helped us with all the paperwork before we moved here. We got a video tour of the place, too, but it didnā€™t do full justice to how amazing our place is. We are ā€œhouse peopleā€ and like the extra garden space for our dog, so we wanted a house vs. an apartment. I would say that rent in Copenhagen can run anywhere from $2,000-$3,500/month (14,000-25,000 DKK) for a several-room apartment or home.

How did you get set up? (phone plan, bank ..)

My husbandā€™s work also helped us get set up with our CPR numbers (kind of like a social security number that all your info here is tied to), which is one of the first things you do to get established. I love how everything is so digital in Denmark, so it makes it pretty simple to set everything up. We just went to a store in the mall to get Danish phone numbers for our phones. The bank setup was the slowest and took a few months, but weā€™re finally getting everything connected.

Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance in Copenhagen?

It is not difficult to get medical insurance here, and in fact, it comes baked in for every citizen here. So, after we got our CPR numbers, we each got a blue citizen card and a yellow health card with an assigned doctor. A lot of medical needs are totally free with what you pay for taxes, so thatā€™s nice.

Living in Copenhagen

What are the main differences between Americans and Danish people?

After living in Denmark for a while, you realize how loud Americans are. Or how quiet Danes are. Maybe itā€™s a little bit of both. I think Americans (especially where weā€™re from in the South) are more likely to talk to strangers or start conversations out in public, but typically Danes will not do that. But, I think that Danes are actually very friendly once you get to know them, and theyā€™ll almost always help you if you ask for it.

Do you need to speak Danish to live in Copenhagen?

Thankfully, you do not need to speak Danish to live in Copenhagen. I would say, 95% of people speak English and donā€™t mind doing so. Danish is also a very tricky language to learn, so most are understanding of that, though I think itā€™s always nice to say try as much as you can in Danish. Hej (pronounced just like ā€œhiā€) is always an easy one.

What are your favorite things to do in Copenhagen specifically?

I just love exploring the parks in Copenhagen. No matter where you are in the city, youā€™re probably no more than 10 minutes away from walking to a park. There is greenery and trees and flowers everywhere, which is so peaceful and delightful. Iā€™m more of a forest than beach person, but there are also so many gorgeous waterfronts close by. My next favorite thing is to eat baked goods here. Their pastries and breads are on another level of deliciousness. If you visit, you must go to Lagkagehuset (my favorite local chain) to try a direktĆørsnegl or other pastry, cake or bun (or all of the above).

Is Copenhagen better than other cities in Denmark?

I havenā€™t been to many other cities in Denmark, other than traveling north to Vejby, near the beach, which was lovely. Copenhagen is kind of the hub of activity, things to do and big city vibes in Denmark, from what I can tell. I like that as long as I can live in a quiet home thatā€™s not in the middle of it all. Iā€™ve heard that once you get 20 or 30 minutes outside of the city, itā€™s much more rural and less diverse.

Whenā€™s the best moment to visit Copenhagen?

My favorite month so far in Copenhagen has probably been June. It was just when summer and the warmer temperatures hit and lots of things were blooming, too. But, if you would rather avoid the heavy tourist season, I would suggest September.

Where is the best area to live in Copenhagen?

There are so many different areas that are great to live in, based on your interests. Although, I canā€™t say enough good things about our area of BrĆønshĆøj-Husum, which is like a residential suburb.

Have you seen any wildlife?

Sure! There are red squirrels here, which are fun to see. We also have a certain park we visit to see ducks, geese and cranes. I saw a hedgehog on a walking trail recently. We have lots of birds in our area, so we enjoy listening to them as well.

How much money do you need to live comfortably in Copenhagen?

Copenhagen is a pretty expensive city to live in, with eating and drinking out topping the charts, I would say. I believe our family expenses come out to about $7,000/month. But thereā€™s a lot you can do outdoors for cheap by just hopping on public transport and visiting somewhere new.

Do you feel safe?

I feel so safe in Copenhagen. I would say itā€™s one of the safest big cities in Europe. Trust and equality is important in Denmark, so people generally want everyone to have a good, safe life. In fact, itā€™s so safe that you will see older kids biking or walking alone back from school at times.

Can you tell us something else about Copenhagen that we might not know?

I think the fact that there are more bikes than inhabitants is pretty amazing. You see bikes and people biking everywhere, which is so refreshing to have fewer cars around. I love seeing families biking to school every morning, and I just bought my first bike here, so I hope to join them soon.

What are some underrated places in Copenhagen?

One of the hidden gems that weā€™ve discovered is the BaneGaarden. Itā€™s an old train station turned urban garden area in the middle of the city with restaurants, food stalls and themed dinners, too. Itā€™s also a great place to grab a drink and snack and let your kids run around. Another place that may not be high on peopleā€™s list is Kongens Nytorv, the kingā€™s square right next to Nyhavn. Itā€™s a bustling hub of people and a great place to get a Danish hot dog for like $5 (be sure to try the classic one with crispy onions and pickles).

What are your favorite restaurants and bars in Copenhagen?

Like I said, itā€™s not cheap to eat out in Copenhagen (typically $100 and above for dinner and a drink for a couple), but we have found some restaurants that we love. TorvehallerneKBH is a wonderful food hall with lots of options and seating, no matter what you like. For fancy smĆørrebrĆød ( traditional Danish open-faced sandwich) and snaps, we like Told & Snaps near Nyhavn. We really like Superbello for Italian near us in VanlĆøse, and while youā€™re in that area, grab a glass of Italian wine at Aperto across the street. If you want something cheaper delivered, I recommend Tacopop for Mexican and Mamas Manaish House for Middle Eastern.

Final Thoughts

Is there anything youā€™d like to share about Copenhagen?

I really like remembering the Viking heritage here. In fact, I recently visited a Viking village an hour away via train, and it was so interesting to walk around and think about what life was like in a coastal town long ago.

Why is Denmark on the top of the happiest countries list?

I think there are a lot of factors that go into Denmark being at the top of the happiest countries list, but I think their universal health system and more agreeable culture (small country and love of tradition) create a great environment to enjoy life. It is also one of the most family-friendly countries and really supports children in every aspect, which is so wonderful.

What is hygge?

I suppose Iā€™m still learning about hygge, but itā€™s generally a term to describe a cozy and warm environment or thing. I expect Iā€™ll be digging into this even more when our first winter comes, but I imagine myself lighting candles, making a hot herbal tea and grabbing a blanket to get ā€œhyggeā€ myself.

What are some books that we could read to learn about Copenhagen?

I donā€™t know of many, but I did read a book called The Little Book of Hygge, and that really helped me to understand the hygge culture in Copenhagen and Denmark a bit more.

What do you know about Danish music?

I admittedly know nothing about Danish music. I did go to a Copenhagen Jazz Festival event in a park this summer.

What does the future of Copenhagen look like?

I feel like Copenhagen has a pretty great, sure future. They value having a low environmental footprint and do all they can to save energy and eliminate waste. Iā€™m so impressed with the recycling program here. You can even recycle plastic, and they use that and the trash to make clean energy.

Was it easy making friends and meeting people?

I feel like itā€™s generally not easy to make friends, although having a toddler and dog makes it a bit easier. Iā€™ve heard that Danes typically have friends that they make when theyā€™re young and keep for life, but I have found them to be a friendly people. Weā€™ve met a few locals in our nearby park, and theyā€™ve been so helpful to answer any questions, too. My husbandā€™s work also provides a spouse program that connects me with other relocated spouses/expats and job resources to get connected, so Iā€™ve made some friends through that.

Describe your favorite recreational activities in Copenhagen?

There is lots to do outside in Copenhagen. I love doing a cheap (under $10) boat tour in the Nyhavn harbor to get a unique view of the city. Thereā€™s also a ferry in that area that you can take as part of public transport. We love going to all the parks here, and thereā€™s lots to explore whether youā€™re into forests or water. You can also go to many beaches (ā€œstrandā€ in Danish) on the coasts and layout or take a dip in the cool water.

Can you tell me something about the local culture of Copenhagen that people might not know?

People may not know that the Danes love to drink and party. Although they are a more reserved culture, you can tell they really enjoy celebrating. Whether itā€™s during one of their many religious holidays or for a birthday, they love to bust out Danish flags, beer and/or wine (or maybe snaps?!) and party for hours. They really know how to enjoy life, and their good work/life balance really supports that. In fact, most offices close around 3 p.m. every Friday.

What has been the hardest aspect of living in Copenhagen?

The hardest part of living in Copenhagen for us is being away from family. Back in Raleigh, we lived within a 20-minute drive of my entire family (parents, sistersā€™ families, and nieces and nephews), so itā€™s difficult not having that familiarity and support system. But, itā€™s really nice when family and friends can come visit and experience this special way of life here. Even though weā€™ve met plenty of friendly people here, itā€™s still hard to establish friendships.

What should people consider before deciding to move to Copenhagen?

If you value autonomy, eco-friendliness, nature, good food and a casual working environment, then you will probably like Copenhagen. I would also make sure you are in shape to walk and bike lots if you move to Copenhagen, too.

Are there any experiences there that you are particularly proud of or that surprised you?

Iā€™ve been surprised and proud by how well our family has adjusted to life here. It was a big switch to leave a country and people we knew so well, but itā€™s really paying off with lots of family time and special memories. My 2-year-old has been in daycare (called ā€œvuggestueā€ here) for 3 full months now, and he is thriving, playing outside, making friends and even speaking a little Danish.

What are your plans for the future?

We donā€™t exactly know what the future holds for us here, but Iā€™m enjoying more free time with my freelance work, as well as savoring the perfect end of summer before it starts getting colder. Iā€™m trying to do occasional updates on my blog about our life in Denmark, so I hope to keep that up, too.
Thank you so much Grace for sharing your insights into living in Copenhagen! I will definitely look at your recommendations if I come visit hehe. All the best for you and your family! Her IG here šŸ™‚