ABOUT
Crystal moved to Paris in 2000, initially teaching English conversation at two high schools as a way to stall before accepting a job on Wall Street. She was captivated by the freedom to create within a laidback atmosphere and the warm reception she received as an artist. Now, as a dedicated mom to twin boys, she has established herself as a singer-songwriter, deeply involved in the French entertainment industry, collaborating on films, series, and artist tours, while continuing to innovate and inspire in her beloved adopted city alongside her now ex-husband.
Moving to Paris
What specifically is Paris famous for?
Iâd say Paris is famous for its mix of class, grit, and attitude – Take a stroll to the lovely luxury boutiques and then venture out to the less glamourous, but more ârealâ areas where youâll be able to pick up foods from around the world, step over dog poop every three minutesâŠThen of course, you can always catch a âmanifestationâ or strike/protest of some sort, because, well, when the French arenât having it, they let it be known in the form of a protest. Iâm close to the area of âNation,â or strike central. Any given day, I can watch the police line the streets and watch thousands of people make their opinion known on a national or sometimes global scale. Bonus was getting caught up in gay pride, as I made my way with my suitcase from the subway to my home just a few meters away.
Do you need to speak French to live in Paris?
The short answer is YES, or at least some basics. I think thatâs true in general, wherever you live thoughâŠunless you plan on staying in a bubble of expats or donât plan on staying very long. Youâll never really understand French culture if you donât learn the language. Some things are definitely lost in translation. I minored in French at Spelman College, spent a summer in Martinique, then went to ESC Dijon in 1998 and forced myself to try out for the school band and spend more time amongst French students, versus American ones. Although I learned a lot while at school, I didnât really grasp the language until I dug in, mistakes and all. I made it a hobby to jot down a few verbs + conjugations, as well as a few catchphrases in my tiny notebook that I carried with me everywhere. Every time I heard something interesting or someone corrected my pronunciation, I wrote it out phonetically. I coupled that with a French-language playlist of songs and watched several movies that I found interesting at the time (great examples – La Haine, Les PoupĂ©es Russes, AmĂ©lie Poulain)
How much money do you need to live comfortably in Paris?
Well, that depends! I was married for 20+ years here, and Iâd say weâd needed a combined salary of 6,000 ⏠minimum per month to live in actual Paris (this includes living with our two kids, plus flying to the US every year, taxes, being a homeowner). If youâre single, want to rent inside Paris, they usually require 3X your salary to rent an apartment. So, imagine youâd like to rent a 1 bedroom apartment via an agency, and it costs 1,400⏠/ month (again, inside Paris, not in the suburbs). Well, times that by 3 for min salary required if youâd like to go through an agency. Tack on extra health insurance coverage, internet, local taxes if applicable, electricity, food, any extra outings like concerts, restaurants, or trips, and Iâd say a single person living comfortably inside Paris should count on earning minimum 4,500⏠per month. This being said, I am in the performing arts industry and know tons of expat artists who live on 2,000⏠per month (renting directly from someone versus an agency, not eating out much, no trips unless for work). And of course, things are generally a bit cheaper in certain cities right outside of Paris but still easily accessible by metro.
Do you feel safe as a woman in Paris?
In general, I feel safe as a woman in Paris. Of course, there are always some dodgy parts to avoid, and rules to followâŠBut theyâre the same ones I used when briefly living in NYC – stay in well-lit areas, let people know where youâre going if you intend to go to a party or off somewhere far, make sure you know exactly where youâre going, have your phone fully charged. In 24 years of living here, Iâve only felt uneasy twice – once when coming back from a nearby town on the local train and I was alone with two creepy men who kept trying to talk to me (mistake on my part!) and again when a pervert dressed in business attire followed me home and and exposed himself inappropriately! I screamed a super high soprano scream, and he ran off! This was in 2002.
How can Americans immigrate to Paris?
Wow, I unfortunately canât speak to this one anymore. I first moved here in 1998 and then in 2000 after graduating from college and was able to get a visa through my Fulbright grant and then obtain French nationality. I do know itâs much different and harder now unfortunately.
Living in Paris
What apps do you find useful in your daily life in Paris?
I use the RATP app daily, since I rely on public transportation as a means of travel.
What are your favorite places in Paris?
I love strolling around Montmartre. I wrote part of my first album while sitting close to the SacrĂ©-Coeur back in the early 2000s. I also love strolling around the Marais area then crossing over to LâIle Saint Louis. Those beautiful streets always amaze me. When itâs hot enough, I grab an ice cream cone on the island and just read a book close to the Seine!
What are your favorite restaurants and cafés in Paris?
I tend to stay local, in my own neighborhood for cafĂ©s, so Iâd say Chez Prosper at Nation, 12th. I also love La Recyclerie in the 19th for dining and a unique experience. Plus they share my same ethics, so thatâs a bonus!
How does Paris compare to other cities in France?
Paris is a bustling city with lots to do. It has its unique smells – a wift of fresh baked croissants that then turns into some drunk manâs old urine. Itâs a lovely place to just sit in a cafĂ© and either work or do nothing but sip on coffee. Itâs not the best place if youâre looking for comfort and friendliness. Youâve got to know how to have thick skin, something this kind girl from Georgia, USA had to learn. Itâs hard to compare it to other cities, but Iâd say I donât feel the need to be as busy or as active in other cities as I do in Paris.
What are some local artists that you recommend checking out?
Paris is ever-changing with its artists. Iâd say to check out any cabaret show by my friend Brian Scott Bagley or even a show by my colleague, Jua Amir and I, via Singing Earth Divine (shameless plug, but itâs true!)
Also, for amazing illustrations and retreats, check out Jessie Kanelos Weiner
What resources should people look at to learn more about Paris?
Definitely check out :
Life in Paris blog / exceptional Paris tours by Yanique
The book, The New Parisienne by Lindsey Tramuta
For a bit of Parisienne/French culture, Madame de la Maison by Ajiri Aki
Life in Paris blog / exceptional Paris tours by Yanique
The book, The New Parisienne by Lindsey Tramuta
For a bit of Parisienne/French culture, Madame de la Maison by Ajiri Aki
Can you tell us something else about Paris that we might not know?
Parisians, if you dig deep enough, can be softies. Iâve gotten so many âextrasâ just from being kindâŠeven via email when asking how their day was going.
Final Thoughts
Are there any experiences there that you are particularly proud of or that surprised you?
Iâm proud to live in such an eclectic, diverse city. Iâm proud I get to see why this remains the most visited city in the world!
What are some disadvantages to living in Paris?
Well, firstly the weather. It can be a rough 4 to 5 months – simply gloomy, grey, rainy and downright depressing. I still miss the warm, sunny weather of Newnan, GA, as well as the space!
If you have winter blues like I do, then itâs awful. I just try to make it through via time spent with loved ones and my various creative endeavors. Also, if youâre sensitive to bad attitudes and arenât good at standing up for yourself or brushing things off, Paris can be a bit overwhelming emotionally. I have had to learn to wear a protective cape when in Paris and take it off when I head back to the US or some other parts of the world.
Was it easy making friends and meeting people?
I met my first friends in France via the ESC Dijon school I studied abroad at. From there, I went on to make friends with my ex-husbandâs childhood friends and then I spread my wings and found like-minded artist friends who were both local or expats. Later on, I made tons of mommy friends when my kids entered school. Itâs not hard to meet people IF you take the time to genuinely get to know them. Invite folks for a coffee, and go from there!
What are your plans for the future?
Yes, my colleague, Jua Amir and I are working on an initiative called SED The Lab. Itâs a greater extension of the work we have done via Singing Earth Divine (SED), our association and choir of the same name for the past 11 years, and itâll allow people to sit front and center inside a small theater with a few professionals and watch how a musical is birthed. Theyâll be able to ask questions, give feedback and even sing harmonies of the âensemble.â We have done two successful test runs and will open it up to the larger public in a couple of months.
Thank you Crystal for sharing your experience living in Paris with us! You definitely know a lot about the arts and youâve been there for so long that your perspective is truly unique! I loved reading your recommendations! I wish you all the best for your new project! Her IG here! đ
