ABOUT
Jenny is French and of Vietnamese descent through my mother. She will be 40 in August, she’s been married for almost 18 years and has two children (soon to be 12 and 17). She speaks fluent French and a little English for traveling.
Moving to Ngaparou
Tell us about yourself
I was born in Paris but I didn’t stay there long because after that my parents moved to Bali, Indonesia. I returned to France when I was almost 6 years old. I lived in Normandy for a year, then headed to the Paris region until I was 12. Then I headed to the southwest of France in the Landes region with my mother (parents divorced and my father was in Poland at the time). I studied hotel management in Bordeaux from the age of 15.
At 16 and a half, I met my husband at this school in Bordeaux. In 2005, I lost my mother, it wasn’t easy as you can imagine. But I kept moving forward for her and my little sisters. At the end of 2006, I moved in with my boyfriend and on July 7, 2007, we said “I do.”
When and why did you move to Ngaparou?
In 2012, I was pursuing a Master’s in Commercial Engineering and Project Management at Inseec in Bordeaux. I had resumed my studies after the birth of our son Louka in 2008. That same year, 2012, my husband, a pastry chef at Fauchon Bordeaux, lost his job due to redundancy. At that moment, December 2012, the turning point happened. I said to my husband, “What if we left France?” The holiday season passed, and my husband didn’t take my plans to leave seriously… and in February, after careful consideration, I said to him, “Why not Senegal?” You should know that my husband was born in Senegal and lived there for a large part of his life before coming to study in France at 19, as did my father-in-law, who lived 80% of his life in Senegal. Anyway, anyway… yet he was born in Senegal. Finally, at the end of February, I decided to take the initiative and put our house up for sale on the Leboncoin website in France. 8 days later we signed at the notary’s office!!!! House sold!!
And so, our decision to leave was made, even though we didn’t yet know what we were going to do…
In the meantime, a big surprise… At the end of March 2013, I learned I was pregnant… We were planning to have a second child, but not right away… but ultimately, we had a surprise baby sooner.
I was still a little panicked at the idea of giving up everything with a baby and my young son, 4 and a half years old. We arrived in Senegal on November 9, 2013, with my 5-week-old granddaughter Edenn and our almost 5-year-old son Louka, in Dakar, Senegal.
Our Dakar hotel project quickly didn’t go as planned… a lot of hassle and cold sweats about our future in Senegal.
Finally, in February 2014, I fell in love with a commercial space in Ngaparou, adjacent to the town of Saly, a seaside resort in Senegal. So in April 2014 we moved to Ngaparou.
In the meantime, a big surprise… At the end of March 2013, I learned I was pregnant… We were planning to have a second child, but not right away… but ultimately, we had a surprise baby sooner.
I was still a little panicked at the idea of giving up everything with a baby and my young son, 4 and a half years old. We arrived in Senegal on November 9, 2013, with my 5-week-old granddaughter Edenn and our almost 5-year-old son Louka, in Dakar, Senegal.
Our Dakar hotel project quickly didn’t go as planned… a lot of hassle and cold sweats about our future in Senegal.
Finally, in February 2014, I fell in love with a commercial space in Ngaparou, adjacent to the town of Saly, a seaside resort in Senegal. So in April 2014 we moved to Ngaparou.
How did you get set up? (phone plan, bank ..)
It was very simple. We went to an Orange branch (internet) to have the account put in our name and also went to a bank branch to open an account.
To open an account, we needed a certificate of residence (obtained at the town hall where you live) and two passport-sized photos.
Was it difficult for you to get health insurance?
Before leaving, we took out insurance with the CFE (Caisse des Français de l’Etranger), which required a three-month waiting period. And since then, even though it costs us a fortune every year, we’ve decided to keep the CFE and the mutual insurance (Mutuelle de France) because our daughter had a lot of health problems when she was little (cancer and growth problems), and having health coverage is important at times like these.
How did you find an apartment in Ngaparou?
When we arrived in Ngaparou in 2024, we found our first furnished apartment through word of mouth, costing 550,000 CFA per month (840 euros). However, after 4 to 6 months with a business we had just opened in May, we quickly realized we needed to save up for the rent. And then, through a client of our former Ka’Nell Bakery, we stumbled upon a lovely villa 1km from work for 350,000 CFA per month (533 euros). A 5-bedroom villa with a swimming pool (unfurnished) on 1,800m² of garden planted with mango and lemon trees. A dream come true. In truth, it was a gem because rents like this are extremely rare to find (I have been a real estate agent for 5 years so I know the prices). Currently below 650,000 CFA/month (1000 euros) it is very difficult to find a 3/4 bedroom villa. Rents have increased enormously since Covid. Since the summer of 2023 we have been living in our house that we had built, so I no longer have rent. But for 9 years we were very happy in this villa where we were renting. One of our best friends, a brother of the heart, also took over this same villa for rent that he knew by heart because we had hosted him for more than a year.
What did you bring with you?
We packed a 20m³ shipping container. We took a few personal belongings, but we prioritized the children’s furniture and belongings. Especially for our son; we didn’t want him to be too disturbed. We didn’t have any furniture except for his bed and desk.
Living in Ngaparou
Why is Ngaparou famous?
Ngaparou has grown, especially since COVID. It is adjacent to Saly (where it is saturated with hotels, restaurants, etc.). Ngaparou and Somone are less crowded and close to the ocean too. In Ngparou, people really want to be near the Salycenter shopping center because it is convenient and not far from the beach (this is the real estate agent speaking). In the 5 years that I have been working in real estate, I have noticed that Ngaparou is requested first, Somone / Nguerigne second tied, and Saly last.
What apps/websites/stores do you find useful in your daily life in Ngaparou?
My go-tos for paying people and stores for purchases or transferring money between accounts are Orange Money or Wave.
There’s also the Jumia app (which is a kind of local Amazon), with much less selection, but it can help out. Personally, I tend to go see my friends in stores; it’s much nicer to chat with them.
For groceries, there have been several options for about 5 years. Life on the Petite Côte has changed a lot. We have Auchan, Carrefour, Casino, Super U. They’re not the same size as in Europe, but you can find what you need. Then I buy my fish from the local fishmonger and my fruits and vegetables from greengrocers like Panier Garnie (in Saly) or, more recently, Fruity Corner, which opened in Ngaparou.
There’s also the Jumia app (which is a kind of local Amazon), with much less selection, but it can help out. Personally, I tend to go see my friends in stores; it’s much nicer to chat with them.
For groceries, there have been several options for about 5 years. Life on the Petite Côte has changed a lot. We have Auchan, Carrefour, Casino, Super U. They’re not the same size as in Europe, but you can find what you need. Then I buy my fish from the local fishmonger and my fruits and vegetables from greengrocers like Panier Garnie (in Saly) or, more recently, Fruity Corner, which opened in Ngaparou.
What are your favorite spots on the small coast around Ngaparou?
– IROKO Beach (drink and eat with your feet in the sand, with chic and bohemian decor, lunch and dinner, a great, friendly staff, and a really nice sunset).
– SAFARI Beach (drink and eat with your feet in the sand, with very nice decor too, and a trampoline for the kids, lunch and dinner. It’s really great for families).
– ZEN PLAYA (only in the evening for a drink and some tapas, chic and chilled setting – oceanfront, feet in the sand with family or friends).
– LA CABANE (Excellent restaurant and a wonderful welcome by the ocean) (best enjoyed with friends or a loved one).
-CHEZ BOUBA in Somone (my Sunday canteen almost 80% of the time), with family or friends, feet in the sand, deckchairs, the lagoon for the children (be careful when the tide goes out), in short I love this spot).
Occasionally, we switch to:
-KEPARANGA – Hotel/Restaurant (we go there some Sundays for the day; the pool and setting are beautiful, perfect for a relaxing moment, and the management is very friendly).
-LE ROYAM Hotel/Restaurant (we go there some Sundays for the day; there’s a pool and also a magnificent beach for adults and children).
-HOTEL BAOBAB in SOMONE (all-inclusive package for the day, or half-board or full-board), a very pleasant place.
-HOTEL AFRICA QUEEN (package excluding drinks for the day, or half-board or full-board), and as a bonus, a great water play area for children!
If I have one tip: also check out Siné Saloum.
– ECOLODGE DE SIMAL (a welcoming and lovely team, a complete change of scenery). -HAKUNA LODGE (ditto! A camp on Mar Lodge Island to discover!!!)
-LES AVENTURIERS DU SALOUM (a platform in the middle of the bolongs for a day, Pierre and his team are exceptional).
A little further up in LOMPOUL (just before Saint-Louis):
– LOMPOUL ECOLODGE (a marvelous site in the Lompoul dunes where you sleep in Mauritanian tents).
-OKAÎ (haven’t been there yet, but I think I’ll discover it soon).
– SAFARI Beach (drink and eat with your feet in the sand, with very nice decor too, and a trampoline for the kids, lunch and dinner. It’s really great for families).
– ZEN PLAYA (only in the evening for a drink and some tapas, chic and chilled setting – oceanfront, feet in the sand with family or friends).
– LA CABANE (Excellent restaurant and a wonderful welcome by the ocean) (best enjoyed with friends or a loved one).
-CHEZ BOUBA in Somone (my Sunday canteen almost 80% of the time), with family or friends, feet in the sand, deckchairs, the lagoon for the children (be careful when the tide goes out), in short I love this spot).
Occasionally, we switch to:
-KEPARANGA – Hotel/Restaurant (we go there some Sundays for the day; the pool and setting are beautiful, perfect for a relaxing moment, and the management is very friendly).
-LE ROYAM Hotel/Restaurant (we go there some Sundays for the day; there’s a pool and also a magnificent beach for adults and children).
-HOTEL BAOBAB in SOMONE (all-inclusive package for the day, or half-board or full-board), a very pleasant place.
-HOTEL AFRICA QUEEN (package excluding drinks for the day, or half-board or full-board), and as a bonus, a great water play area for children!
If I have one tip: also check out Siné Saloum.
– ECOLODGE DE SIMAL (a welcoming and lovely team, a complete change of scenery). -HAKUNA LODGE (ditto! A camp on Mar Lodge Island to discover!!!)
-LES AVENTURIERS DU SALOUM (a platform in the middle of the bolongs for a day, Pierre and his team are exceptional).
A little further up in LOMPOUL (just before Saint-Louis):
– LOMPOUL ECOLODGE (a marvelous site in the Lompoul dunes where you sleep in Mauritanian tents).
-OKAÎ (haven’t been there yet, but I think I’ll discover it soon).
How much money does it take to live comfortably in Ngaparou?
It all depends on how you live. I’d say it’s complicated to know. Because my life expectations are probably not the same as anyone else’s. Today, for a family of four, I think it’s complicated to live below €3,000 per household when you consider all the expenses to pay. Here, we don’t get any state assistance (no unemployment benefits etc.).
Do you feel safe as a woman in Ngaparou?
I walk alone without any worries, but I’m always very careful with my purse. There are bag snatchings, like in many countries. I often walk my dogs or stroll along the beach. I’ve never been bothered in 12 years here, but you still have to be vigilant.
Final Thoughts
In your opinion, how do the French compare to the Senegalese?
It’s a bit complicated to summarize, but I would say that when I had my old business (a bakery-pastry shop-restaurant), I saw French people who were lovely to the Senegalese, but also others who displayed a lot of contempt and a lack of manners. I often wondered why some French people came here and adopted such an inappropriate attitude, as if they were trying to behave at their worst.
Which local artists do you recommend discovering?
In my current career, I had the opportunity to meet Alioune Diagne, a Senegalese painter who spends part of the year creating his works on the Petite Côte. His paintings are very original, and he exhibits around the world, including his latest exhibition in New York. There are also singers like Youssou N’dour, Akon, Ismaël Lô, and Wally Seck (he’s actually one of my neighbors 🙂 ). I’ve also met other artists in various circles, such as Omar Sy (who came to our old business several times), El Hadji Diouf, Hervé Renard, and Ferdinand Colly, with whom I continue to work professionally. I also met Bouba Diop (sadly deceased), who was a wonderful person, as was his family, particularly in the context of football.
Are there any experiences there that you are particularly proud of or that surprised you ?
Despite life’s challenges, I’m quite proud of how far we’ve come over the past 12 years. I’ve had moments of doubt about our decision to come and live here with my family. Today, looking back and seeing where I am now, I’m happy to have left and to have done everything we did. It wasn’t easy. I won’t hide from you that the first year I almost left a thousand times. In the eighth year, too, I had to question whether or not to leave. In 2013, I told my husband, “Come on, honey, let’s go for 3 to 4 years, max 7.” And finally, 12 years later, we’re still here. In a year, our son will leave Senegal for his studies, just as my husband did. At the moment we don’t plan to leave, but I don’t know if I’ll have the strength to let my son go so far away from me.
What are some of the drawbacks of living in Ngaparou?
I would say Senegal in general. The pollution, especially in Dakar… The cost of living… And lastly, the distance. Ticket prices to France and other countries are prohibitive and a real budget. I miss my family, and it’s hard not to see them as often as I’d like.
What advice would you give to a visitor?
-Follow accounts of locals (Senegalese or French living in Senegal) to get their favorite spots and travel tips.
-Be patient when negotiating when you go to the market to buy your goods!
-Respect the Senegalese and the country.
-Be patient when negotiating when you go to the market to buy your goods!
-Respect the Senegalese and the country.
Is it easy to make friends and meet people?
I’ve had a group of friends for several years, mainly other French expats, although some have been here for over 20 years, so we’ll talk more about the term “immigrant” in Senegal.
WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? ARE YOU WORKING ON ANYTHING PARTICULAR?
I currently have a busy life with my various jobs (I’m a real estate agent and a kinesiologist, I know they’re two completely different professions, but I’ve found a balance that suits me perfectly).
I don’t yet know what we’ll do next. What’s certain is that we want to go to another country one day, but not return to France… Since 2021, we’ve put our travels on hold for a while to build our house. Our last trips were to Florida in January 2021 and Zanzibar in July 2021… but starting in 2026, I plan to resume our annual trips to discover new destinations! I’d like to go see my little sister who lives in Canada, whom I haven’t seen for over two years… Visit Cape Verde, which is not far from Senegal, but we’ve never had the time…
In short… In 2027, we’ll be in the Western United States for our 20th wedding anniversary. Another “I do” in front of Elvis? Why not?
Thank you so much Jenny for this big dive into your life in Ngaparou! I appreciate that your recount was really detailed so we can feel your thought process and how you overcame life challenges along the way. I am glad you found a balance with all the different aspects of your personal life and career, it’s truly inspiring! I wish you and your family the best in the years to come! Jenny’s IG here!
