Expat Story: From Ireland to Tavira, Portugal

by The Photography Confidential
Comments 0

ABOUT

Cath was born in Botswana to Irish parents, and they lived in Southern Africa until her family returned to Ireland when she was 9. She grew up in the suburbs of Dublin, attending the local university, where she received her PhD in Chemistry.

Cath soon followed her then-boyfriend (now husband) to the UK where they lived for 14 years before moving to where they are currently located: the Algarve in Portugal.

TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF

Thanks to my father’s itchy feet, I lived in 4 different countries by the time I was 10 and I firmly believe this is one of the reasons why travelling is in my blood.

I met my husband while finishing my PhD and once I had finished my studies, I followed him to the UK where we lived, firstly in the Midlands, and then in South Wales. Our son was born in South Wales and when my parents retired to Portugal, we soon followed thanks to my husband’s ability to work remotely.

We’ve been based in the Algarve, near the Spanish border, for 7 years now. While our son is bilingual, we have taken a bit longer to learn Portuguese but can hold a conversation now.

Moving to Tavira

When and why did you move to Tavira?

We moved to the Tavira area of the East Algarve in 2017, not long after my parents retired to the same area.

My father had worked with many Portuguese and Brazilians in Angola in the 1990s and he always wanted to retire somewhere warm. With my husband working mostly remotely, we took a leap of faith and decided to sell up and move to the same area with our son who was 3 years old at the time.

My husband had been working away from our home in Wales Monday to Thursday and this would not only give us a chance to spend more time together, but on the rare occasion he needed to travel for work, I would finally have family support near me after being alone since leaving in Ireland after my PhD.

How did you get set up?

We initially bought a mobile home and sited it in a residential park. The plan was to live there for 2 years to see if we liked Portugal before investing in a house. While we had to pay rent on the land it sat on, it meant our overheads were kept to a minimum in the first few years.

This was the main set-up that would enable us to move and we had to wait 4 weeks upon arriving in Portugal before we could move. Thankfully my parents had room for us to stay with them.

Getting anything else was a bit trickier and we were glad my parents knew what we needed to do. We had to get fiscal numbers in order to open a bank account. From there we could apply for phones and pay bills. Essentially, to do anything in Portugal, you NEED a fiscal number.

We also found a lady to help us get our residency papers, health system numbers, and social security numbers and to import our car and my husband’s motorbike. Having help with these when we did not have the language was vital.

We also got basic medical insurance through our bank and to date, this has been sufficient for us.

What did you bring with you?

While we sold our house and one car in Wales before we left, and downsized our belongings from our six-bedroom house, we still had a lot of things to bring.

We had a removal company help us pack up our house and split our belongings between things coming to our mobile home and things going into storage.

We also brought our faithful German Shepherd and our main family car, as second-hand cars in Portugal are very expensive. My husband’s motorbike also made the trip.

What should people consider before moving to Tavira?

Tavira has changed in the 7 years that we have lived here.

There has been an influx of both Asian workers and American families and retirees which has pushed up house prices, making it harder and more expensive to find reasonably priced accommodation.

Also, the favourable Golden Visas and NHR tax scheme both came to an end at the beginning of 2024, which means people will face high taxes and strict rules on visas.

Ideally, anyone looking to live in Tavira should already have a job if they are of working age, as local jobs are scarce and low-paid for the most part.

Families need to consider whether they will use the local schooling system or International school, which only teaches the British curriculum and is expensive.

Living in Tavira

What is Tavira like?

Tavira is a mostly traditional Portuguese town that grew up around fishing and the salt plains.

It is not like its counterparts in the West Algarve like Lagos and Albufeira which are hugely popular as holiday locations, particularly for British and Irish holidaymakers. Tavira sees a mixture of expat tourists who are older and Portuguese tourists from Lisbon and the north of the country.

If you are looking for holiday hotels, strips and bars, Tavira is not for you.

But if you are looking for a traditional Portuguese town that is quieter and more relaxed, then it is an ideal location.

What languages do you need to live in Tavira?

Portuguese is obviously the mother tongue of Tavira and is spoken everywhere. Sure, there are expats who say you don’t need to learn Portuguese as “everyone speaks English” but that has not always been our experience.

Yes, the younger generation can speak English, having learned it in school, but not everyone DOES speak English.

If you are retired and simply doing your shopping and going to a café, you can get by with English or the basics of Portuguese. But, if you are working or living as a young family and need to access local schools, health centres or any additional help for your children, you will need some Portuguese to be able to communicate.

On a regular basis, I deal with a speech therapist, child psychologist, orthodontist and the schoolteachers and helpers, all of whom have little or no English and only converse in Portuguese.

What are you favorite places in Tavira?

While we don’t live in Tavira town, we are close enough to visit and my son and I pop into town twice a week for his speech therapy sessions.

We love the square beside the Roman Bridge and the little garden that runs alongside it. Flavour Café is our favourite haunt for breakfast in Tavira.

Barril Beach was also a hidden gem for us with its anchor graveyard, left over from the days of the fishing industry. And there is nothing like an evening stroll along the boardwalk in Cabanas, watching the fishing boat bob up and down in the inlet.

Further along the coast, we love Manta Rota beach as you don’t need to get a ferry or boat to access it and Monte Gordo boardwalk is lovely with some great beachside restaurants.

Do you feel safe as a woman in Tavira?

Yes, I have always felt safe in Tavira as a woman, although I will preface this by saying I am never out at night on my own. I just never have a reason to be.

There is only one thing that has slightly put me on edge and that is a pushy homeless man who tends to hang around supermarket car parks looking for money. I know who he is and how he operates and have learned to avoid him.

Other than that, I’ve never felt unsafe in Tavira.

What are your favorite restaurants and cafés in Tavira?

I’ve already mentioned Flavour CafĂ© in Tavira town centre but for a special dinner, we’ve enjoyed O Castello.

Outside of the town, we enjoy regular dinners at Restaurante Xicken & Cia. On the EN125, heading towards Vila Real de Santo Antonio, and regular Indian meals at the Royal Indian Tandoori in Cabanas.

How much money do you need to live comfortably in Tavira?

This very much depends on where you live, your circumstances, income and outgoings. Some people get by on very little, but others have a more lavish lifestyle. So, answering this question is too hard.

Final Thoughts

Have you seen any wildlife in Tavira?

Tavira lies along a natural park called the Ria Formosa. It is a wildlife area and is protected. For those wandering the beaches, you might spot dolphins out at sea. On land, chameleons are a protected species of reptile and can sometimes be spotted in the Ria Formosa areas.

During late winter and early spring, the salt flats are home to flamingos, along with other migratory birds.

How do Portuguese people compare to Irish people?

We have always found the Portuguese people to be very friendly and helpful, especially when we speak the language, no matter how little of it we had in the past.

Trying to speak a little Portuguese goes a very long way with them.

We’ve found the locals very helpful and even had our son’s hairdresser offer to put us in contact with someone to get our son registered in preschool.

What are the disadvantages to living in Tavira?

Tavira is a quiet town and very traditional and as a result, amenities for young families are often lacking.

There is a small skate park, very small castle ruins and a cinema in the shopping mall, but not much else aside from the beaches. So, it can feel lacking sometimes when you are trying to find things to do with kids.

How did you meet people and make friends?

One of the easiest ways to meet people is to join the expat Facebook group for the area and watch out for social meeting events. In the East Algarve, there is a ladies group that meets for lunch once a month.

I also found joining a group Portuguese conversational lesson with my teacher allowed me to meet people and practice the language at the same time.

We have found making friends with Portuguese people more difficult and it is only after 6 years that I am starting to make friends with some of the mums of the kids in my son’s class, one in particular who speaks perfect English after living in London. Although we mix the two languages, she has become an invaluable friend to me.

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? ARE YOU WORKING ON ANYTHING PARTICULAR?

I write an Ireland destination travel site called Travel Around Ireland aimed at helping people plan their trip to Ireland with guides and handy tips. I also run a Facebook group with the same aim. They keep me busy in between school runs and all the appointments and after-school activities my son has.

Future plans are up in the air at the moment. There may be an opportunity for us to relocate for a few years due to my husband’s work, but things are in the very early stages. I’d love to say more, but if things don’t materialise then we will be staying put in Portugal.
Thank you Cath for your insights into living in Tavira! It sounds like a great place to raise children and to reconnect with nature. I hope your projects will bring you lots of joy in the future! All the best 🙂