ABOUT
Maika is a French and Japanese holistic business mentor who moved to Istanbul in Turkey.
Moving to Istanbul
What should people consider before deciding to move to Istanbul?
One of the first things you should consider when moving to Türkiye is to make a serious plan to learn the language. I recommend dedicating a few months to an intensive program at a language school, rather than relying on language-learning apps.
If you don’t prioritize learning Turkish, it’ll be difficult to get around and attend to your most basic needs. Simple tasks like taking a cab, asking for directions, ordering your fish at the market, getting things from the tailor or dry cleaner will become a hurdle.
Once you’re able to argue in Turkish with the taxi drivers, you’ll feel empowered!
If you don’t prioritize learning Turkish, it’ll be difficult to get around and attend to your most basic needs. Simple tasks like taking a cab, asking for directions, ordering your fish at the market, getting things from the tailor or dry cleaner will become a hurdle.
Once you’re able to argue in Turkish with the taxi drivers, you’ll feel empowered!
Did you learn Turkish?
Yes, I did learn Turkish! When I first arrived in Turkey, I immediately enrolled in an intensive program at the Dilmer language school. After completing the program, I took and passed the level A1 exam for Elementary Turkish which certified my proficiency for everyday conversations.
Following this, I continued my learning journey through weekly private lessons with private tutors, on and off, for a total of about one year.
Following this, I continued my learning journey through weekly private lessons with private tutors, on and off, for a total of about one year.
What apps or stores do you find useful in your daily life in Istanbul?
Neighborhood market:
You know that moment when you’re cooking and realize that you’ve forgotten one ingredient? Being a busy mompreneur, I so appreciate the convenience of being able to call the neighborhood market, and they immediately deliver exactly what I need. My advice: Find your neighborhood market and get their number saved in your phone.
Istanbulkart (Istanbul card)
I use my Istanbulkart on my mobile device to pay for the bus, subway, and ferry rides. I find the French or Japanese system hard to understand and navigate. Thus, I appreciate the simplicity of Istanbulkart.
What are your favorite places in Istanbul? Why?
Arter and Istanbul Modern
These are both contemporary art museums that I regularly visit all year round. They host interesting exhibitions and educational workshops for children related to art. You can easily spend half a day at either, with a lunch or coffee break.
https://www.arter.org.tr/
https://www.istanbulmodern.org/
The Cihangir and Cukurcuma area
This is a laid-back bohemian style neighborhood , with artsy cafes, vintage and antique shops, and arts and crafts studios. It reminds me of 798 and Nanluoguxiang in Beijing in the old days. You can spend a day walking around from one shop to another, join a ceramic workshop, eat at a local restaurant, or hang out in a specialty coffee shop with a book or laptop. For lunch, check out Cuma, a hidden gem. For something more casual and homey, try Mayko. And for coffee and cheesecake on an outdoor patio, Vasalisa is a cute spot!
These are both contemporary art museums that I regularly visit all year round. They host interesting exhibitions and educational workshops for children related to art. You can easily spend half a day at either, with a lunch or coffee break.
https://www.arter.org.tr/
https://www.istanbulmodern.org/
The Cihangir and Cukurcuma area
This is a laid-back bohemian style neighborhood , with artsy cafes, vintage and antique shops, and arts and crafts studios. It reminds me of 798 and Nanluoguxiang in Beijing in the old days. You can spend a day walking around from one shop to another, join a ceramic workshop, eat at a local restaurant, or hang out in a specialty coffee shop with a book or laptop. For lunch, check out Cuma, a hidden gem. For something more casual and homey, try Mayko. And for coffee and cheesecake on an outdoor patio, Vasalisa is a cute spot!
Living in Istanbul
What's on your list of favorite restaurants and cafés in Istanbul?
Cafes
Minoa (Akaretler branch)
Minoa is an award-winning cafe-brasserie that beautifully blends pastry shop, bookstore, and concept store. This place feels like a second home to me; I can visit at any time of the day and always find something comforting on their menu. It’s hard to resist their thoughtfully curated book and stationary selection! Minoa is my first choice, whether I’m meeting a friend, or coming alone to work on my laptop or writing in my notebook. https://minoa.com/
Kruvasan
This is a must stop for any friends or relatives visiting Istanbul. Their croissants are delicious- the best I’ve ever had! They offer a wide array of options, both sweet and savory (think fillings like eggs, spinach, salmon, and avocado). My favorite is the plain croissant with mandarin confit. Be sure to arrive early, or be prepared for the queue! https://www.kruvasan.com.tr
Origami
I’m a big fan of Origami, and it starts with their branding, which is beautifully reflected in their interior design. They offer delicious croissants, a fun and colorful matcha menu, and coffee. This is one of the only places I know where I can get coffee with almond milk (most other coffee shops only offer oat milk). Their Dubai chocolate is incredibly popular, drawing customers from all over the world! Origami’s Instagram
Petra
When I first moved to Istanbul, Petra was the first place that captured my heart, and I’ve been a regular ever since. It’s my go-to for brunches and even just an afternoon savory treat. This spacious venue features an interesting retail area as well as a bakery section- think Monocle and Kinfolk. For coffee snobs, Petra offers excellent coffee, and their creative kitchen consistently leaves me feeling inspired and uplifted. My favorite drink is their “Sumac Lemonata” , their unique local spin on lemonade. I often can’t resist taking home a loaf of bread and some dark chocolate too! https://www.petracoffee.com/
Restaurants
Sütiş (Emirgan branch for its view on the Bosphorus)
Sütiş is a beloved Istanbul institution famous since 1953 for its traditional Turkish breakfast. When I came here the first time, I discovered the lavish spread and fell in love with Bal Kaymak (clotted cream and honey). I could not stop dipping pieces of Simit (a sesame-crusted kind of bagel in a sort of pretzel shape). It was the first time I tried Turkish coffee and found the small coffee cup so charming! It was definitely an acquired taste but over time, I learned to appreciate it.
The Populist
Craft beer brewery & burgers (as well as some Turkish specialities!) It’s a colorful and lively place to have a meal with friends and family. We love their burgers (great vegan option!) and always order the guacamole & salsa. And of course, their award-winning beer, Torch.. This is the most aromatic beer you’ll ever taste!
If you’re in Istanbul in October, you should definitely check out their Oktoberfest celebration.
They have two locations in Istanbul, both with unique atmospheres:
One in Bomontiada, nestled within the historic Bomonti Beer Factory.
One in Galataport, offering breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. https://www.thepopulist.com.tr/
Itsumi (Levent branch)
For authentic Japanese lunch sets, Itsumi is my go-to, especially when I’m missing Japan. Their tempura and soba noodle lunch set is a personal favorite. Located in an office building, the restaurant offers efficient and quick service, making it perfect for a hearty lunch break. Itsumi’s Instagram
Minoa (Akaretler branch)
Minoa is an award-winning cafe-brasserie that beautifully blends pastry shop, bookstore, and concept store. This place feels like a second home to me; I can visit at any time of the day and always find something comforting on their menu. It’s hard to resist their thoughtfully curated book and stationary selection! Minoa is my first choice, whether I’m meeting a friend, or coming alone to work on my laptop or writing in my notebook. https://minoa.com/
Kruvasan
This is a must stop for any friends or relatives visiting Istanbul. Their croissants are delicious- the best I’ve ever had! They offer a wide array of options, both sweet and savory (think fillings like eggs, spinach, salmon, and avocado). My favorite is the plain croissant with mandarin confit. Be sure to arrive early, or be prepared for the queue! https://www.kruvasan.com.tr
Origami
I’m a big fan of Origami, and it starts with their branding, which is beautifully reflected in their interior design. They offer delicious croissants, a fun and colorful matcha menu, and coffee. This is one of the only places I know where I can get coffee with almond milk (most other coffee shops only offer oat milk). Their Dubai chocolate is incredibly popular, drawing customers from all over the world! Origami’s Instagram
Petra
When I first moved to Istanbul, Petra was the first place that captured my heart, and I’ve been a regular ever since. It’s my go-to for brunches and even just an afternoon savory treat. This spacious venue features an interesting retail area as well as a bakery section- think Monocle and Kinfolk. For coffee snobs, Petra offers excellent coffee, and their creative kitchen consistently leaves me feeling inspired and uplifted. My favorite drink is their “Sumac Lemonata” , their unique local spin on lemonade. I often can’t resist taking home a loaf of bread and some dark chocolate too! https://www.petracoffee.com/
Restaurants
Sütiş (Emirgan branch for its view on the Bosphorus)
Sütiş is a beloved Istanbul institution famous since 1953 for its traditional Turkish breakfast. When I came here the first time, I discovered the lavish spread and fell in love with Bal Kaymak (clotted cream and honey). I could not stop dipping pieces of Simit (a sesame-crusted kind of bagel in a sort of pretzel shape). It was the first time I tried Turkish coffee and found the small coffee cup so charming! It was definitely an acquired taste but over time, I learned to appreciate it.
The Populist
Craft beer brewery & burgers (as well as some Turkish specialities!) It’s a colorful and lively place to have a meal with friends and family. We love their burgers (great vegan option!) and always order the guacamole & salsa. And of course, their award-winning beer, Torch.. This is the most aromatic beer you’ll ever taste!
If you’re in Istanbul in October, you should definitely check out their Oktoberfest celebration.
They have two locations in Istanbul, both with unique atmospheres:
One in Bomontiada, nestled within the historic Bomonti Beer Factory.
One in Galataport, offering breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. https://www.thepopulist.com.tr/
Itsumi (Levent branch)
For authentic Japanese lunch sets, Itsumi is my go-to, especially when I’m missing Japan. Their tempura and soba noodle lunch set is a personal favorite. Located in an office building, the restaurant offers efficient and quick service, making it perfect for a hearty lunch break. Itsumi’s Instagram
Can you tell us something else about Istanbul that we might not know?
People have a profound love for cats and dogs.
There are street cats and dogs everywhere; with dedicated shelters, small houses built for them, and bowls of water and food placed outside at shop doors. It’s common to see people regularly visiting parks just to feed the animals. However, be cautious with street dogs though- some may bite!
Meatballs are “a thing” here.
Football fans often grab a meatball sandwich before a match and you’ll see meatball stands at nearly every corner. Kids love meatballs and any restaurant will have meatballs in their menu. And if you drive outside the city, you’ll see meatball restaurants along the road.
How does Istanbul compare to other Turkish cities?
It’s the most international city I’ve visited in Türkiye, with the most international and diverse food scene and cultural life.
What are some local artists in Istanbul that you recommend checking out?
Hali Altindere
He’s a Turkish contemporary artist and his work is quite multifaceted; using various mediums including video, sculpture, photography, installation, and performance. He is renowned for exploring themes such as migration, identity, gender, and resistance to oppressive systems.
His wife, Azra Tüzünoglu owns the prominent contemporary art gallery- Pilot Galeri, known for its interdisciplinary approach.
https://halilaltindere.com/
http://pilotgaleri.com/en/homes
He’s a Turkish contemporary artist and his work is quite multifaceted; using various mediums including video, sculpture, photography, installation, and performance. He is renowned for exploring themes such as migration, identity, gender, and resistance to oppressive systems.
His wife, Azra Tüzünoglu owns the prominent contemporary art gallery- Pilot Galeri, known for its interdisciplinary approach.
https://halilaltindere.com/
http://pilotgaleri.com/en/homes
What movies should people look at to learn more about Istanbul?
I find the work of the filmmaker and screenwriter Nuril Bilge Ceylan hypnotic.
He has been awarded multiple times at the Cannes Film Festival.
His films are slow paced, with captivating scenes of Turkish landscapes, and deep and long dialogues. At the center of his plot often lies the irony, struggles, and pain of the human condition.
I find his style poetic and always imbued with a meaningful message. My personal favorites are Winter Sleep and Three Monkeys.
Final Thoughts
Are there any experiences there that you are particularly proud of or that surprised you?
One thing that surprised me and filled me with pride was getting my Turkish driving license. Surprisingly, the test here was a hundred times easier than in Paris. Despite that, I actually had to get therapy to overcome my fear, failed the test twice and finally succeeded on my third time (to be fair, the second time, it was raining like mad and I couldn’t see much).
That being said, I’m proud now to be able to drive in Istanbul (at least for now, with my husband by my side).
What are some disadvantages to living in Istanbul?
Traffic and going around: The subway network is still limited in certain areas, and cars are the best option to go around. Yet, traffic in Istanbul is no joke; to a point where people decide where they go and who they meet based on how hard it is to get there.
Not designed for wheelchairs, strollers, and bikers:
Istanbul is a city built on hills so its roads are often uneven, hilly, tight, and winding, especially in older neighborhoods. Because of this, at times, driving feels like an obstacle course, and it’s even tougher to get around with bikes or strollers- be ready for a workout.
Was it easy making friends and meeting people?
Istanbul doesn’t have a large expat community as it had in Beijing where I lived for 13 years. And I don’t typically get to meet and hang out with expats – who come for three years and go (apologize for the big generalization!).
I consider myself as a hybrid here, and Türkiye is a country where my family and I have built our long-term home.
But nothing is permanent and certain. Even if we were to live in another country one day, Türkiye will always be part of our family legacy and a place we return to.
It wasn’t easy to find friends I truly connect with and it took a few years. But I’m grateful I made friends through the business I built which attracted other “hybrid locals” like myself. My son’s school community has also been a wonderful way to make friends and we meet outside of school on a regular basis.
I’m also grateful for organizations like Toastmasters where I was actively involved until Covid-19 and met incredible people, and International Women of Istanbul today. I’ve joined several workshops and also contributed through content.
I consider myself as a hybrid here, and Türkiye is a country where my family and I have built our long-term home.
But nothing is permanent and certain. Even if we were to live in another country one day, Türkiye will always be part of our family legacy and a place we return to.
It wasn’t easy to find friends I truly connect with and it took a few years. But I’m grateful I made friends through the business I built which attracted other “hybrid locals” like myself. My son’s school community has also been a wonderful way to make friends and we meet outside of school on a regular basis.
I’m also grateful for organizations like Toastmasters where I was actively involved until Covid-19 and met incredible people, and International Women of Istanbul today. I’ve joined several workshops and also contributed through content.
What are your plans for the future? Are you working on anything particular?
I’m continuing to support my clients inside my private mentorship program and my signature group program, Intentional Business Immersion.
Throughout the year, I’m also regularly facilitating in-person and online workshops focused on marketing, professional development, and entrepreneur skill sets.
You can visit my blog for resources to build a value-driven hybrid business.
Additionally, I’m also working on a business-building retreat for coaches, in collaboration with Erickson Coaching International.
You can learn more and connect with me via:
Website: https://www.maikaendo.co/
IG: https://www.instagram.com/maika.endo
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/maikaendo/
Get Your Free Reflective Guide: The Momentum Journal
A gentle mid-year reflection guide to capture your growth, realign with what matters, and plant the seeds for what’s next.
Throughout the year, I’m also regularly facilitating in-person and online workshops focused on marketing, professional development, and entrepreneur skill sets.
You can visit my blog for resources to build a value-driven hybrid business.
Additionally, I’m also working on a business-building retreat for coaches, in collaboration with Erickson Coaching International.
You can learn more and connect with me via:
Website: https://www.maikaendo.co/
IG: https://www.instagram.com/maika.endo
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/maikaendo/
Get Your Free Reflective Guide: The Momentum Journal
A gentle mid-year reflection guide to capture your growth, realign with what matters, and plant the seeds for what’s next.
Thank you so much Maika for giving us so many tips on living in Istanbul, and recommendations for where to go! I will look back at your list when I come visit for sure! I wish you the best in all of your wholesome projects!
