Expat Story: From the US to Mauritania, Africa

by The Photography Confidential
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Tell us about yourself

I’m Victoria, a 33 years old Black woman from the United States. I’m originally from NY but have spent significant time in FL and DC as well. I am only fluent in English but I would currently consider Spanish my second strongest language. I have lived in a lot of places so I know simple conversations in Thai, Egyptian Arabic and a tiny bit of French but I can probably only use them at this point in an emergency 😂 Bye-Lingual and all that. I am a teacher which is how I move from place to place. 

Moving to Mauritania

When and why did you move to Mauritania?

I moved to Mauritania from Egypt in August of 2021. The why is complicated but the situation was that during COVID many places were not hiring. The school I ended up working for contacted me, asking me to interview. I thought I had heard of the country and was interested in what I thought was a remote island off the Eastern Coast of Africa. Admittedly I didn’t know anything about the country and it was during the interview, when the interviewer said “West Africa”, that I realized that the job was for Mauritania, not Mauritius. Haha. I ended up taking the job and moved there a few months later.

How did you get set up?

Since I was working for a school, they assisted me in setting up everything. When I arrived my apartment was fully furnished and my contract included medical insurance.

What surprised you about living in Mauritania?

Since I didn’t know much about the country before relocating there, I didn’t have any expectations. Mauritania is very rural and slower-paced than anywhere I have lived before.

What should you consider before moving to Mauritania?

I think there are many things to consider before moving to Mauritania. While I do not usually visit the places I’ve lived before moving to them, Mauritania is an exception. I believe it is somewhere that can’t really be explained and needs to be experienced for yourself before making the jump. While there are things to do, I think this country would be a big culture shock/transition for most people coming from more developed nations.

Living in Mauritania

Do you need to speak Arabic to live in Mauritania?

Depending on which city you are visiting, knowing any dialect of Arabic would be useful. The Arabic dialect spoken in Mauritania is Hasseniyah but not everyone speaks it. I found that French was widely spoken and Pulaar, Soninke, and Wolof are recognized as national languages. While knowing any of those languages would be extremely helpful I didn’t feel completely helpless in Nouakchott, the capital, as some people knew a bit of English and body language goes a long way.

What are your favorite parts of Mauritania?

My favorite city in Mauritania is Terjit. It is an oasis in the desert. I had the privilege to camp there overnight. The stars at night are unreal. Truly one of my favorite memories. On this same trip I also visited Chinguette. The downside is that it is quite far from the capital and it isn’t the easiest place to get to it. When I was there they were building a road. I am unsure if it was completed since I left.

How much money do you need to live comfortably in Mauritania?

Since my school paid the rent I didn’t have to cover a lot out of my own pockets. I had a maid that came 5 days a week which was included in the apartment. A driver for 5 days a week for $84 per month.

A cook who cooked 5 days a week and went grocery shopping daily for a little more than $200 a month. Aside from rent, I was spending around $600-$800 USD a month for everything (phone, food, extra curriculars, etc).

Final Thoughts

What are the inconvenients to moving to Mauritania?

I think to move to Mauritania vs visiting you need to be prepared for a slower, less technologically advanced location depending on where you’re from. You will not be able to rely on eating the food from your home country unless you make it, although ingredients might be difficult to source, without connections from the embassy. This could cause homesickness to be greater because your diet might have to change. There was barely a food delivery service or a reliable ride-share app and since I did not speak any of the local languages, I found simple tasks a bit difficult. I am unsure if any of that has changed but since I was coming from Cairo where everything was extremely convenient I found it hard to cope.

What is Mauritania famous for?

The Iron Ore Train is the reason most people visit Mauritania. It is a 17 hour train ride where you ride on the top of piles of iron ore across the Sahara. From what I understand it is going to be banned soon so if you want to do it, I’d suggest doing it sooner than later.

Was it easy making friends?

While I had a few friends there I wouldn’t say it’s easy to make friends. I was lucky to be attached to the American embassy so there were some other people to connect with but I wouldn’t say it’s easy especially if you do not speak French.

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? ARE YOU WORKING ON ANYTHING PARTICULAR?

After living in Mauritania I took a sabbatical and moved to the Dominican Republic and I am currently living in Bahrain, where I am back to teaching. I have a website dedicated to moving, living and working abroad. I also have a moving abroad guide to help other people move abroad.
Thank you Victoria for sharing your experience moving to Mauritania! It’s quite a unique experience to have, and so rewarding! I wish you the best in your new life chapter 🙂