Expat Story: From the US to Stockholm

by The Photography Confidential
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Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance?

ABOUT

Katrina is originally from Wisconsin, USA and studied to be a teacher for elementary and/or Spanish! She wanted to live and travel abroad as a teacher, so she started in Honduras hoping to improve her Spanish fluency and from there she continued on to other places. From Honduras, she ventured to Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. She loved it, but work permit couldn’t get extended so she went back to Wisconsin to figure out her next steps.

TELL US MORE

Within a few months, I realized that I was bored of living in such a comfortable and small community and lusted after the excitement and challenges that come from living in new countries and so I entered a job fair for international teachers once again and decided on Beijing, China. Loved my time there, but due to the pandemic and a long distance relationship, I was ready to leave the country and try another which leads me to my current location, Stockholm, Sweden.

Moving to Stockholm

When and why did you move to Stockholm ?

I’ve only recently moved to Stockholm (July 2022 – so not quite yet a year). There are many reasons I chose this location and some are more heavily weighted than others. Quite honestly, my number one reason I moved here is to be in the same country as my boyfriend. We could have lived together in any country and they all would have been amazing. I always try and find opportunities that will make me happy in any country. But what made Sweden stand out from other countries (besides its IT and teaching opportunities) is that it was located in Europe, a new continent for me; full of nature and a high quality of life; has great work/life balance; and is one of the most family friendly places to start a family (which will be useful in the next couple of years!).

What did you bring with you?

Nothing of importance. I’ve moved between countries so many times and have had to pack my life into 3-5 bags that it all amounts to clothes, shoes, and a few personal items. I did have a friend bring me the giant bottles of melatonin from the US, though, and wish I could find some decent enchilada sauce. Most things I use are easily found here.

How did you find an apartment?

Luckily, my boyfriend’s employer helped us find an apartment because finding a place in Stockholm is insane. People often move at least once or twice a year due to the short rental contracts (mostly secondhand). Average rents for a 2 room apartment (one bedroom apt ~40 sq meters) are around 15.000 SEK (1, 500 USD). With the energy crisis this last year, rent went up 10%. Our friends who bought an apartment, have been screwed over.

Housing consists of firsthand or secondhand rental contracts (and buying, of course). Firsthands are the best because they have a cheaper and fixed rate and can be lived in for as long as you want. There are long queues for these that you can be waiting in for upwards of 5 or more years before you get one. Secondhand is the more readily available, but more expensive and unpredictable. People are only allowed to rent out their owned homes for 2 years maximum and so there’s lots of movement and difficulties due to this.

Many people own apartments or buy apartments for their kids. Many people also own a summer home elsewhere in Sweden.

How did you get set up? (phone plan, bank ..)

Unlike most my other previous international experiences, Sweden was a bit trickier to get set up in. I had to independently figure out and set up appointments for myself with some very minimal and confusing advice from my employer. My employer organized the work permit, but even that was a whole ordeal. Now that it’s all sorted, it’s great! But in Sweden, you will hear from everyone, me included, that until you get set up with things like a personnummer (kind of like a tax ID number), you can’t do nearly anything. Sweden is a cashless society that operates largely off of mobile apps, most of which aren’t accessible unless you have a personnumer. Getting a personnumer can take anywhere from 6 weeks to several months. I was lucky and got it within 6 weeks, plus my boyfriend had moved here 4 months earlier and already had all of his stuff set up. So really, I didn’t have that much trouble doing day to day stuff like others have had. And if you’re trying to do any of this in July, HA! Fat chance. Sweden shuts down in July because everyone goes on vacation and that means radio silence because here, vacation actually means vacation. You shut down anything related to work and don’t touch it until you’re back.

Main organizations to schedule appointments with were: Migrationsverket (work and residence permit), Skatteverket (tax agency), and a bank of your choice (SwedBank for me).

Phone plans are easy to get around here for your own personal plan. Most work places actually provide you with a work phone and phone plan, too.

How did you get medical insurance?

Sweden has free health insurance covered by taxes. I have yet to use it and quite frankly have heard so many negative things about it from others (your obvious suspects: long waiting queues, doctors passing you along saying you’re fine, etc.). I’m already a skeptic about health care as I’ve never had great experiences seeing doctors, but cannot say anything from personal experience yet. I do know that medicine is not really a thing here like it is in the U.S. Cold medicine? Doesn’t exist. Melatonin or dramamine – tiny boxes with 10 tablets that are like $5-10 USD. Swedes don’t tend to take medicine from what I’ve gathered.

What should people consider before deciding to move to Stockholm ?

People are not as open here. I am very social and am still struggling to find my niche. Especially since in winter, life practically shuts down. Summers are a whole different field game, but even then, it can be a challenge to meet people, especially Swedes.

What surprised you about life there?

I found Sweden to be more similar geographically and somewhat culturally to Wisconsin than I had thought it would be. I guess it makes sense, since many Swedes immigrated to Minnesota/Wisconsin back in the day. There are so many parks, nature reserves, lakes, Baltic Sea, water channels, rivers, etc. here! Lots of playgrounds, too! Also many cafes and restaurants. Although they close quite early, which can be a shame when you’re out late and want food!

Alcohol is controlled here…one store -Systembolaget- is allowed to sell booze and it is expensive. Canadians are used to this, but Americans like me, are not. They close at 3 on a Saturday! And not open on a Sunday. So be prepared and buy it on a weekday in bulk! But for people like me who walk everywhere and the nearest one is 10 minutes away, carrying heavy and bulky glass bottles and cans is not always ideal (especially as I live at the top of a big hill!).

I was warned repeatedly about winters, so not really a surprise, but winters are dark starting in November. Like sun goes down at 3 pm dark. I found it pretty because there’s plenty of Christmas lights and whatnot. But by March, I was ready for more light. What was surprising was just how quick of a turn around the light had. It felt like immediately after daylight savings, the daylight was just there for so much longer. It’s only April, but the sun rises at 5:15 am and doesn’t set until 8:20 pm. The days only get longer and longer through Midsummer in June! (June 21-22). And doesn’t become grim again until late October, early November.

Also interesting but really annoying…rather than salt to prevent snow and ice from gathering on sidewalks, they use tiny gravel. So much gravel. And it gets everywhere! Always inside your shoes, kicked around your apartment, and waiting ever so slyly for you as you round the corner ready to make you skid dangerously in painful ways. Since it takes a while to remove snow from sidewalks and it is such a walking city, the sidewalks are always slick with packed, icy snowwalks. And with the multitude of small hills to walk up and down, get ready for some close calls, or worse, painful falls. But otherwise, the snow is beautiful!

Oh, and another thing. There’s really not much soundproofing between the windows and the outdoor world. So be ready to wake up at 5 am to snowplows, or worse, chirping birds (depending on the time of year – I’m talking about you summer!) from anywhere between 2 am and 10 am. I hope you live on a quieter street because otherwise you hear the loud conversations of people as they pass by. But the biggest danger is your neighbors. Heaven forbid you have a neighbor who doesn’t ever shut their alarm off! I love being woken up every morning weekdays and weekends to 10+ minutes of a buzzing alarm that doesn’t stop.

Also, sharing sidewalks (NOT!) was a surprise. Don’t expect a group of Swedes to move over on the sidewalk as you approach from the other direction. They will continue to take up nearly the whole sidewalk leaving the barest hint of space for you to hopefully squeeze into. I don’t understand how or why this is a thing.

Living in Stockholm

What specifically is Stockholm famous for?

-A city made up of several islands surrounded by water and bridges. So pretty in the summer! Mildly pretty all other times of the year.

-Musicians – I work at a school and so many of the students are so musically inclined and keen and talented! They produce so many famous music artists here.

-Great family benefits! Kids get an allowance from government. 400ish days parental leave split between mom and dad for every kid.

-Strong unions

-Socially awkward, but also incredibly nice when you do actually have genuine talks with them.

What apps do you find useful in your daily life in Stockholm?

-Must have to function: BankId, Swish, SL (transit), Duolingo

Great apps: Klarna (digital mail from all services), grocery store cards like Coop (discounts and some deals to city events), Biblio (library app), Flyggbussarna (airport transfer)

How can people from the US immigrate to Sweden?

Find a job. Most available jobs to English speakers are in the IT sector. IES schools for English speaking teachers. LinkedIn is the main way to keep an eye out. If you have a connection, you are far more likely to be successful as they give preferences to them. Swedish language tends to be a requirement for most other jobs from what I hear. Another main way is ‘marry a Swede’. 5/10 that will be the reason a foreigner moved to Sweden.

Do you need to speak Swedish to live in Stockholm?

For many jobs, yes. To communicate on a day to day basis, not really. Most native Swedes speak English. Other immigrants from non-English speaking countries usually only communicate in Swedish. Everything is written in Swedish, though, and so learning Swedish is recommended to make life just a bit easier and also to make an effort to fit into their culture. Duolingo has been great for me! Once you get here and have a personnummer, the government also provides free SFI (Swedish language classes for immigrants) that you can sign up for to develop the language.

What are your favorite places in Stockholm?

The nature reserves! Especially in the summer, but even all year round. They have running trails around lakes, docks or rocks that you can jump into the fresh, cool lake/sea water from, and depending on the area, so many ducks and birds to watch.

What is the most recent thing you've read in the news about life in Stockholm?

I largely use The Local to get Swedish news in English. Most news are about the new political party and how they want to change requirements and whatnot for immigrants, or current events like the snow storms we’ve been having, or NATO struggles with Turkey, etc. They also give a daily word of the day in Swedish and explain it which can be interesting!

What do you think about young Swedish people? How are they similar or different to older generations?

Young people here use so much slang. In my language classes, I hear all about how the language is evolving (or devolving?) due to the slang younger people use. But besides student aged children (9-14 year olds), I’m not sure about how they compare. The younger generations almost all know English, older ones, less so.

How much money do you need to live comfortably in Stockholm?

Most people will say between 30.000 and 40.000 SEK a month is a comfortable salary to live in Stockholm. I agree with this statement as I make between this amount and have no problem covering costs that I split in half with my boyfriend. By myself, it would be much tighter, but still doable. Over 50.000 SEK and you start to get taxed a greater amount.

Do you feel safe as a woman?

Yes. It is very safe here. Over expat forums, I see discussions from some feeling that discrimination is an issue, though. I cannot speak much towards this as I have not experienced any, but do know that there are tensions about immigration at the moment and grumblings about it leading to higher crime rates. However, comparatively to other places (aka – US), there’s very little. As a woman, specifically, gender equality is valued greatly here.

What are your favorite restaurants and cafés in Stockholm?

I don’t eat out often as it is a bit expensive and I like to make my own foods. But there are many great places to eat. There are tons of sushi places, ramen houses, pubs, kebabs, korv (sausage) stands, pizzerias, cafes, burger joints, and whatnot. Most cuisines can be found relatively nearby. Although, besides La Neta, I have yet to find some great Mexican restaurants.

How does Stockholm compare to other cities in Sweden?

It is the largest. There are only 3-5 large cities and the rest all have small town feels. This is where most foreigners come and (probably) where most English is easily found. I haven’t been to many others yet, but Malmo is one of the larger cities and it still feels SO small! Gothenburg is popular for many to go to.

Can you tell us something else about Stockholm that we might not know?

A hill and a sushi joint are always within arms reach! That was the first thing I noticed walking around my first week here! Djurgarden and that whole surrounding area is probably quite literally the prettiest area of Stockholm.

FINAL THoughts

How to make friends?

Join a sports league or club of interest to you! Use meetup. Invest time into making friendships. It is not easy here. Especially during winter months. So far, all my friends are other expats as Swedes are notoriously hard to make friends with. I talk with many Swedes that are colleagues of mine, but have not had much success in fostering friendships outside of work. To be fair, I haven’t tried very hard, yet, as I’ve been focusing on other things.

What are some disadvantages to living in Stockholm?

Despite being in Europe, it’s actually quite isolated from other countries and therefore does not make for as great of a travel hub. It’s not that cheap, easy, or convenient to get to the airport (especially if you have late or early flights), and oftentimes the flights aren’t as cheap as you’d expect or hope.

Public transit is great for most parts of the city, but trying to go further out gets longer and trickier without a car.

One of the public transit systems (Pendaltag) has frequent strikes and causes many commuter disruptions. At least this is true for this year.

Renting is difficult to find and expensive for foreigners.

More difficult to meet people and befriend them, but not impossible.

What are your plans for the future?

My plans are to continue to work on integrating into a thriving life in Stockholm. It’s more slow-going than I want it to be, but it is getting there!
Thank you Katrina, your story-telling skills never disappoint! I am so glad that you managed to build yourself a great life in Stockholm! I wish you all the best in Sweden!

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